A Fat Guy’s Guide to Múlagljúfur Canyon

Drone’s eye view of Múlagljúfur Canyon, Iceland

Introduction to Múlagljúfur Canyon, Iceland

At the end of an unmarked and very unassuming gravel road in southeastern Iceland, is the trailhead for Múlagljúfur Canyon. A cluster of cars at the base of a ravine is the only indication there’s anything special worth seeing. From that limited vantage point there doesn’t seem to be any reason for anyone to venture off the Ring Road. But if you do, and are willing to begin an uphill climb without seeing the finish line, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most beautiful panoramas anywhere.

Beginning the Hike into Múlagljúfur Canyon

After seeing some YouTube videos and blog posts about this ‘secret site’ I made it a point to visit on my travel party’s way back from stunning Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Tired from our day’s explorations, my fellow travelers opted to stay in the car while I ventured up the base of a rising hill that disappeared from view as a light rain began to fall. I can safely say, I made the better choice.

Before getting into the details, I should mention that I’m in my late 40’s and carrying more weight than I need to. Long story short, I’m old and fat, with gravity being more of an enemy than a friend. But even my physical liabilities were no obstacle to witnessing this natural spectacle in person -even if that did involve a bit of a climb.

The Múlagljúfur Canyon Trail

Take a hint! Go to the Right!

The trail started off rather uneventful, with a muddy path winding through low lying shrubbery and brush. At points there seemed to be a juncture, though the “wrong” path was clearly marked by a line of stones crossing its entrance. The climb was steady but not overly steep, and every so often it was necessary to step aside as travelers coming from the opposite direction (with gravity on their side, I might add) approached.

At a certain point, there’s a rather steep drop-off to a rocky riverbed, full of slick stones and (presumably) some very chilly water. It doesn’t require goat-like footing to cross, but you’ll want to pay attention to avoid getting an involuntary foot bath.

As the path continues you’ll find yourself on a rising ledge that drops off on each side. To the left is another scenic, but not quite as scenic valley with its own waterfall and river running through the grassy tussock. But the real show is on the right, as the stunning greenery of the landscape grows increasingly dramatic. The drama reaches a crescendo as the graceful veil of Hangandifoss spills over the opposite edge of the canyon to a lush valley below.

The hike to the first lookout point took about 45 minutes, with only a few brief pauses for me to catch my breath. At this point I was sweaty and sore from the uphill climb, but now that I made it this far – fat as I am – I was determined to see more.

Hangandifoss and Me (I’m on the right)

It was about another 15 minutes to the next viewing point, where I stood at the edge and admired the dizzying panorama that looked right out of a fantasy novel. Not seeing any signs prohibiting the use of drones (or any signs at all for that matter), I spent the next 20 minutes buzzing along the canyon from different heights and angles, catching a view of silver-white Múlafoss tucked further down the valley, and saving me an additional climb to see it directly.

A River Runs Through It – Literally

Surrounded by the greenery, and soothed by the steady roar of the tumbling waterfalls, any anti-gravity struggles I was feeling melted away. And as I ran my drone to and fro, observing the majestic views it affords, I had to admit that Múlagljúfur Canyon is now the second most beautiful spot I’ve visited in my travels across 78 countries and 7 continents. Milford Sound, New Zealand, you still get my top vote.

Practicalities and Whatnot

There are great views on the journey, not just the destination

At the time of writing (November 2023) there was no sign to indicate the turnoff for the Múlagljúfur Canyon trailhead. I don’t know the coordinates offhand, but it lies north of the ring road, a few miles west of Jökulsárlón Lagoon. If you see a bunch of rental cars heading off into nowhere, you’re probably in the right place.

If it happens to rain the day of your visit, be prepared for very muddy, and very slick pathways. At one point I lost my footing and splashed down rather clumsily in the mud. Make sure you have sturdy shoes and free hands to help navigate the path – especially when crossing the river.

As amazing as the lookout points may be, don’t forget to admire the scenery along the way. From the top you can look out at the glaciers meeting the ocean, which provides an overwhelming sense of scale. There are also some lovely rock formations in the valley below that may not be the main attraction, but are worth a snap or two all the same.

Closing Thoughts

Despite my lack of being in shape (unless you consider ovoid a shape), it was about an hour’s hike to the second viewpoint, and even less to make it back. Upon my return I was tired, sweaty and out of breath, but most of all I was thrilled. Places like Múlagljúfur Canyon are hard to come by, and since I’d already come as far as Iceland, it only made sense to come a little further.

So if you’re interested in seeing one of the most mesmerizing natural features on the planet, start getting in shape now. But rest assured, even if you don’t hit your fitness goals before the day of your flight, Múlagljúfur Canyon is still accessible, even if you’re old and fat like me.

My Top Ten Travel Experiences & Why They Should Be Yours

As an unabashed travel addict, I know full well the temptation to be so concentrated on the ‘where’ that at times you might neglect the ‘what’. Sure, ticking off countries like it’s a checklist does bring with it a measure of satisfaction. But when you give due attention to what you’re doing, and not just where you’re doing it, this will level-up your life experience points and enrich your memory bank exponentially.

The perfect blend can be achieved by seizing the opportunity to experience one-of-a-kind activities in extraordinary places. I’ve made acquiring such experiences a priority in my life, and my memory bank (and photo albums!) are all the richer for it.

Here’s a rundown of my top 10 travel experiences and why you should make them your own as well. I’ve also included links to previous blog posts if you want to learn more about how you can make one of mine your own.

10) Canyoning, Costa Rica

Canyoning in Costa Rica

The definition of ‘canyoning’ is simply ‘making one’s way through a canyon’. The adventure of it all has everything to do with what methods one uses to make their way through said canyon.

Outside of La Fortuna, in the Arenal region of Costa Rica, my own canyoning adventure required 4 waterfall rappels and one dry rappel through a lush canyon tucked into the surrounding jungle. Bouncing down a vertical wall just mere feet from a 150+ foot waterfall is a thrill indeed, and something I’m glad I did when my strength and stamina were superior to what they are now.

9) Whitewater Rafting, Borneo, Malaysia

The Rafting Party, Borneo, Malaysia

While I’ve had the pleasure of going whitewater rafting on more than one occasion, the adrenaline rush of doing so in Borneo, through a primeval jungle of massive trees right out of a legend is next-level when it comes to the experience.

Though I was annoyed by our near-suicidal guide who seemed to take great pleasure in watching his clientele get dumped into the churning waters, it was still a lot of fun. During the intermittent calm stretches, I enjoyed hopping into the water and staring at the jungle as I floated along in disbelief that I was actually there.

8) Visiting Glowworm Caves, New Zealand

The beautiful “sky” of a glowworm cave

After visiting a total of 78 countries, I am still completely convinced that New Zealand is the most beautiful place on earth. Part of its appeal are the many soft adventure activities that abound just about everywhere.

A truly unique experience is on offer in the Waitomo Region of the North Island. More specifically, the opportunity to visit caves filled with their namesake glowworms.

My tour had us spend some twenty minutes floating down an underground river in near darkness while observing a glittering universe of bluish-white lights stretched across the cavern ceiling. This experience resonated deeply in me, and if anyone asks, I wasn’t crying, I just had something in my eyes.

7) Basically, Anything in India

Zip Lining Mehrangarh Fort

Besides being a fascinating destination for foodies, history buffs and fans of architecture, those in search of authentic – and memorable – experiences will have no shortage of options when visiting India.

Whether it was taking a rickshaw ride in the absurdly narrow and crowded streets of Delhi’s Chandni Chowk, going on a tiger safari in Ranthambore National Park, zip-lining off an ancient fort in the blue city of Jodhpur or just trying to cross the street without being run over by a car/cow/or camel, I can’t just choose one amazing experience to encapsulate the thrill that a trip to India serves up around every corner.

6) Dodging Icebergs in Antarctica

Blue Iceberg, Near Elephant Island, Antarctica

Quite literally the ‘coolest’ thing I’ve ever done was to cruise the Gerlache Strait and Neumayer Channel on the Antarctic Peninsula. Weather puns aside, watching icebergs of innumerable shapes and sizes drift by, at times populated by lounging penguins or seals, was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

5) Helicopter Ride over Victoria Falls

The only way to see it all is from above

Sometimes that life-altering experience requires that you splurge for a big ticket tour, and that’s exactly what my wife let me do on our visit to the incomparable Victoria Falls (thanks again, Babe).

Though we had visited both the Zambia and Zimbabwe sides (for more on what the difference is check out this previous blog post), seeing this natural wonder from a helicopter (my first ever ride in one) as the spray formed a continuous rainbow over a tremendous gaping chasm in the earth was a sight I’ll never forget. I’m happy to say that the same can’t be said for the previous balance on my credit card. Advantage: experience!

4) Scuba Diving the World’s Best Sites

Me and the Manta, Nusa Penida

From the moment I first took a breath of air underwater, I immediately knew that I was hooked on scuba diving. Add to that the incredible locations that I had yet to explore both above and below the water, and I was addicted.

While I’ve gone diving all over the world, my greatest standout moments were shark dives in both the Bahamas and French Polynesia, diving with Manta Rays off the coast of Bali, and exploring the world-class Great Barrier Reef of Australia.

Between the prolific marine life, gorgeous corals and big animal encounters, there have been numerous occasions where the thrill of the experience took my breath away. I guess it’s a good thing I had an oxygen tank with me.

3) Safaris in Botswana, Ecuador, Sri Lanka & South Africa

Members of the infamous Big 5, Timbavati Reserve, South Africa

I have a deep love for all animals, and have found no greater thrill than to see them in their natural habitat. When it comes to African safaris, that habitat included varied landscapes ranging from savannah to forest to river islands. Plus there’s the bonus of African sunsets that are truly mesmerizing.

While Africa is still my favorite safari destination, an elephant safari in Sri Lanka’s Minneriya National Park and wildlife spotting in Ecuador’s Amazon basin were no disappointments. Rather, they were amazing experiences that have me raving about them to this very day.

2) Hot Air Balloon Ride, Cappadocia, Turkey

Baloon-view over Cappadocia, Turkey

Remember when I mentioned earlier the benefit of splurging on a special experience? The strongest evidence I can give was shelling out the cash for a hot air balloon ride in Turkey’s surreal Cappadocia region. Nobody was quibbling about pennies after drifting across a mesmerizing landscape of rocky spires and canyons that was right out of a Dr. Seuss book. The thrill was heightened when seeing our fellow balloons filling the skies around us in a variety of colors.

Long story short, if you happen to be in Central Turkey, now isn’t the time to be cheap.

1) Cheetah Encounter, Livingstone, Zambia

African family portrait, Livingstone, Zambia

Here it is, my current all-time favorite travel experience. On a trip to Victoria Falls, we spent the night across the border in Livingstone, Zambia. There we did a “cheetah encounter” tour, which gave us lots of personal interaction with these majestic beasts.

You can read more about the details in this previous blog post “When a Cheetah Licks Your Head, Try Not to Laugh“, but having such intimate engagement with the animals, all in a genuine bush habitat was top of the chart for me. It wasn’t cheap, and yes, these are not wild but rehabilitated cheetahs, but so far, in my litany of amazing travel stories, my time with these kitties still takes top billing.

Parting Thoughts

Keep in mind that this list is by no means complete. I am constantly plotting to add or supplant an experience to my top ten. If this idea appeals to you, I encourage you to just follow this simple formula: P+SA=TEL.

Pick the place you wish to visit (P)

Find the special activity on offer there (SA)

And the result will be a travel experience of a lifetime (TEL).

It really comes down to doing your homework, making the accumulation of experiences a priority, and having the courage to go out there and do it. So figure out your own list, then make plans to take it to the next level. You won’t regret it, and as you’ve just seen, you’ll derive joy from being able to share.

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What are your top 10 travel experiences? Share in the comments below

Worms of Wonder: A Review of Spellbound Glowworm Cave Tour

Early Morning in the Waikato Region, North Island, New Zealand

It’s been long established that New Zealand has an embarrassing wealth of natural wonders and attractions, so for me to wax poetic about how beautiful the landscape is; how mind-bogglingly stunning the scenery can be; and the plethora of adrenaline-inducing activities on offer, it would probably come across as redundant. But even in the presence of such superlative statements, I’ve found that there are at least two places in New Zealand that are so unique and so awe-inspiring, that even with a lineup of so many A-list destinations they manage to distinguish themselves as A pluses.

The first, is Milford Sound, which upon visiting I dubbed: The Most Beautiful Place On Earth, and have not yet been persuaded to bestow that honor to anyplace else. The second features an environment so unique that I haven’t heard of anywhere like it on the planet. These are the glowworm caves of the North Island’s Waikato region, and if you’re a jaded traveler who thinks they’ve seen everything, it’s time to (literally) go a little deeper.

But before we get started, if you’d like to see an overview of some of the breathtaking scenery on offer on the North Island – including the glowworm caves – check out my video below.

Where Are The Glowworm Caves & How Do I Get There?

The Waikato Region – and the cave systems contained therein – are located slightly northwest of the center of New Zealand’s North Island. From Auckland, it’s about a 2.5 hour drive that passes through the city of Hamilton before becoming completely immersed in a brilliantly-green landscape of rolling hills, dairy farms, and limestone rock formations. Waitomo Village is the hub for exploring the area, with the towns of Otorohanga and Te Kuiti providing additional lodging and dining options. A rental car is the only practical way to explore the region, and will allow you the option of exploring more than just the wonders underground.

What Can I Expect on a Glowworm Cave Tour?

Shedding light on the life of a glowworm

There are a variety of tour operators in the region, each with different variations on the glowworm cave experience. Adrenaline junkies can opt for rappelling into a cavern followed by ‘black water’ rafting through rapids in the dark. Honestly, that would have been my first choice. But since my wife has this thing about risking life and limb in tight spaces underground, we opted for the best pure glow-worm oriented tour available, which is offered by Spellbound Tours.

The tour started from a tiny office perched overlooking the bucolic hill country that sprawls out in all directions. Once in the van, guests are taken on a short ride further uphill, with the option to walk a short trail through more of that incredible scenery down to the entrance of the cave. Here we donned hard hats with headlamps and even paused to admire the rather large freshwater eels that seem to gather at this particular curve of a rushing river that disappears into the yawning mouth of the cave.

Once inside the cave, our guide pointed out the eponymous glowworms nested in the shallow ceiling over our heads. The worms secrete a cluster of hanging threads, and use their internal bioluminescence to attract flies to land on them in the darkness. Under the lights of our headlamps they weren’t all that impressive. But that’s when you’re brought to a small boat docked along the underground river, and when the lights go out, impressive is suddenly an insufficient word to describe the scene.

Glow baby, glow

Glittering like a pale blue galaxy of stars, tens of thousands of glowworms formed a shimmering canopy of light all along the length of the cavern. For about 20 minutes we moved back and forth along the river, admiring an otherworldly view that looked right out of a science fiction novel. Once our group finally put our cameras away (more on that in a minute), our eyes were able to make out greater detail, and the faint luminescence now reflected as a glimmer in the water surrounded us above and below with a glow that I can only describe as surreal.

There have been a handful of times in my travels that I was so moved, so emotionally stirred by the beauty of a panorama that I felt on the verge of choking up. This was one of them. And the best part is that it was dark enough that even though I was in a group, I still felt as if this was an exclusively personal experience. Had anyone turned on their headlamp, I could have easily used the old excuse: I’m not crying, I’ve just got a worm in my eye.

It’s this ‘gallery’ of glowworms, and the vantage point of seeing them by boat that really separates Spellbound from the other tour operators. That’s why I would heartily recommend their services for those looking for a glowworm-centric experience. But as if this was not enough, those on the Glowworm and Cave Explorer Tour have a whole other portion to enjoy.

Traversing the Cave of Spirits

Upon exiting the cave, we were directed to an outdoor pavilion surrounded by more impossibly-green hills dotted with sheep, where we could enjoy a hot beverage and the use of restroom facilities. After that, its a short walk to the mouth of the Cave of Spirits, which despite being mostly glowworm-free was still a beautiful setting with all the usual cave formations such as stalactites and stalagmites. Our guide provided us with geological and historical commentary, and even pointed out the fossilized remains of a large indigenous bird called a Moa, which is sadly now extinct. All in all the entire tour took about two hours if memory serves, and while it did require a bit of walking, it was nothing challenging for those without any serious mobility issues.

Can I Take Pictures Inside the Caves?

Literally going Down Under in New Zealand

Believe it or not, this was a contributing factor to my choosing Spellbound as my tour operator. For very practical reasons, operators with more action-based excursions prohibit the practice of personal photography, and instead have a staff member well-versed in the challenges of the environment taking pictures that are then shared at the end. And in fairness, it is really hard to capture clearly these faint pinpoints of light unless you are absolutely stationary. However Spellbound will not only allow you the option to take your own, but at a select few locations the guide will take one of you and your party using your own device. Bear in mind that the breathtaking images you see on any of the tour operators’ websites have not been taken by a casual photographer on tour. But even if there’s no practical way for an amateur to fully capture the grandeur of the scene, you can still get some awesome shots that will stimulate a lot of oohs and aahs.

Is There Anything Else to See In the Area Besides the Glowworms?

Marakopa Falls

Considering this is New Zealand we’re talking about, the above is a stupid question. One of the best things about the country is that you’ve got a lot of natural beauty, all found in a compact area. Two attractions that are worth exploring are the Ruakuri Boardwalk, located just down the road from the Waitomo Glowworm Caves, which are arguably the most popular (and touristy), and Marakopa Falls.

The Ruakuri Boardwalk features a figure-8 shaped trail that winds through a lovely gorge with raging water and open caverns in the rock. This offers some great photo ops and is a pleasant – and free – activity to incorporate into your visit.

Marakopa Falls is located about a half hour ride one-way along a very narrow, very winding mountain road through dense forest from Waitomo Village. From the small turnoff on the side of the road, its just a ten minute walk to an observation point overlooking this very impressive waterfall. If you have a drone at your disposal, you can get some gorgeous shots from angles unavailable to the strictly land-based photographers.

Parting Thoughts

I said this 17 years ago on my first visit, and I say it again now: New Zealand is the most beautiful country on Earth. That said, if there’s one place you see on the North Island, make it one of the glowworm caves. You will enjoy one of the truly unique travel experiences available on the planet, and like me, I’m confident that you will be mesmerized by these ‘worms of wonder’.

Light and shadow in the glowworm caves

Have you been to New Zealand? Share your favorite moment in the comments below. And if you want a great New Zealand souvenir, check out the New Zealand Rugged Country Code Tee in the Custom Travel Art Shop.

New Zealand Rugged Country Code Tee by Custom Travel Art

Rarotonga & Aitutaki – An Overview of the Best of the Cook Islands

Snorkeling in the incredible Aitutaki Lagoon

After a 21 year hiatus, I finally got back around to visiting the islands of the South Pacific-this time the absolute jewels of Rarotonga and Aitutaki. And while theoretically I could have raised a child to adulthood in the intervening years, the only legacy I brought with me on my return to Oceania was the experience acquired from visiting another 54 countries across all 7 continents, as well as a noticeable amount of muscle stiffness every time I wake up.

The world has changed a lot in the past 21 years. Fortunately, the natural beauty and cultural heritage of the South Pacific has held steady. My last foray into this region were the Society Islands of French Polynesia. This time my sights were set on the lesser-known but equally-gorgeous Cook Islands, just one island chain over to the left.

The following is an overview of what you should know when considering a trip to the Cook Islands’ two most popular destinations: Rarotonga and Aitutaki. I’ll cover the main attractions, activities and general vibe, while also sharing some cultural and practical suggestions to make your trip here unforgettable.

If you’re a visual learner and would rather watch than read, you can view some of my drone footage by watching this video

Beautiful scenes from the Cook Islands

Things to Know About the Cook Islands

Before I get into the specifics about individual islands, an overview will help you put things into context. Politically, the Cook Islands are tied to New Zealand, though with a great measure of autonomy. Though their land mass is minuscule, they do occupy an enormous swath of territory spanning the spaces in between Kiribati, American Samoa, Tonga and French Polynesia. Culturally, they are very much akin to the Polynesians, though they do have their own nuances that distinguish them from the rest.

Being located in the tropics, the weather will range from warm to very hot, with different seasons bringing varying levels of wind and humidity. Passing showers are a regular occurrence, yet rarely a complete washout. My visit took place in September, which was the end of winter for the Southern Hemisphere and left us with low humidity, comfortable temperatures, and quite a bit of wind. Now, on to the islands!

What to Know About Rarotonga

Muri Lagoon

As the largest of the Cook Islands, and site of the international airport, Rarotonga – or Raro for short – will make an appearance on any visitor’s itinerary. Roughly rectangular in shape, the capital Avarua, the airport, and primary seaport of Avatiu are all located along the northern side of the island. Aside from some large supermarkets and a traffic circle, there’s not a whole lot of interest to tourists.

The western side has quite a few lodging and dining options, many of which owe their appeal to the mesmerizing sunsets they afford. In the northwestern corner of the island many come to snorkel at a place called Black Rock, which got its name for obvious reasons. The turquoise lagoon and large boulders make for some prime marine viewing.

There are some fine public beaches along the southern coast of Rarotonga, but it’s really in the southeastern corner where you’ll find the bulk of the island’s infrastructure in a small town called Muri Beach. Here there’s a wide range of accommodations and restaurants-including a lively night market on certain days of the week where you can indulge in a variety of cuisines. Most of all, people come to see the strikingly blue lagoon, where uninhabited islets with secluded beaches dot the seascape. If there’s anyplace on Rarotonga that could be described as ‘happening’, it’s here.

What to Know About Aitutaki & the Most Beautiful Lagoon in the World

The Lagoon of Aitutaki

Once upon a time I had never imagined a body of water could be more mesmerizingly blue than the lagoon of Bora Bora. But after just a few minutes on Aitutaki, I was ready to pass the crown.

Less than an hour’s flight north of Rarotonga, crescent-shaped Aitutaki is a green jewel enclosed in a turquoise setting. A string of uninhabited islands line the lagoon’s perimeter and are best accessed by a guided lagoon tour. On one such tour you can visit the site of the original seaplane landing that connected the island with the ‘modern’ world, go snorkeling among giant clams along the lagoon’s edge, and have lunch at the idyllic outpost of One Foot Island.

The highlight for me was a small, barren sandbar that barely reached above the waterline called Heaven. Here, every South Pacific island dreamscape you’ve ever imagined comes to life, with shimmering shallow water in a spectrum of blues forming a concentric rings of tropical beauty in the extreme. In fact, I can confidently say that I’ve never experienced a more beautiful tropical setting than I did standing on ‘Heaven’.

An aerial view of “Heaven”

Getting Around on Rarotonga and Aitutaki

Getting out to visit the backroads on Rarotonga

On Rarotonga, there are several ways to get around. The most convenient is to rent your own vehicle. You can circle the entire island in less than an hour, but having a place to keep your stuff when visiting a beach or restaurant, or even exploring some of the backroads is a big plus. Motorbikes are also available for rent, but you must have a license ahead of time or submit to a local driving test, which is more hassle than you’re probably looking for.

Many resorts offer complimentary bicycles, whereas some car rental agencies will offer ebikes. Given the relatively low traffic and short distances this is an economical and green alternative.

On Raro you can also make use of the public bus system, which has two routes that circle the island in opposite directions. They’re quite reasonably priced, with multiple ride options, though the buses are a bit old and rattle so loudly it sounds like they’re about to fall apart. Each village has at least one covered bus stop, though in reality all you have to do is wave the bus down (try to be on the side of the direction you’re looking to go) and tell the driver where you want to get off. And while there is a published schedule, remember that you’re in the Cook Islands, not Switzerland, and precision timing is not a strong point.

On Aitutaki, options are far more limited. Taxis and water taxis can be quite expensive considering the short distances. Once again a bicycle is the most economical option for getting around, and the relatively flat road system will keep this alternative in reach for anyone who is moderately fit.

Eating and Drinking in the Cook Islands

Delicious local dish: Ika Mata

For a remote Pacific outpost, there are some good eats to be found on the Cook Islands. Rarotonga naturally has the lion’s share of options, with fancy, sit-down venues boasting cultural dance shows to roadside pop-ups. There are some really nice cafes where you can indulge in very large, very tasty breakfasts with excellent coffee. And on the west side, the bars and restaurants-each with their own drink specialties-offer amazing sunset viewing from their decks and balconies.

On Aitutaki the options are more limited, though small cafes and hotel restaurants offer enough to keep things interesting. You can also grab some groceries if you’re staying at a self-catering accommodation.

Though the principle applies across the board, when it comes to restaurants in the Cook Islands, I found that Cook Islanders have a very casual relationship with business hours. More than a few times I stopped at an eating establishment with a sign saying open 12-2 only to be told: “No, we don’t open until 6.” This means that you make sure to eat during the actual times operation, since you’ll have literally zero options in the intervening times. I never thought I’d be wishing for a McDonalds, but the accessibility of food can be an issue if you don’t get your timing right.

I should also mention that most establishments- especially for dinner- require or at least request a reservation. My personal travels were not so meticulously planned that I could commit in advance to where I was going to eat, so when we showed up sans reservation, we were always accommodated, though not without a distinct air of disapproval from our host.

Lastly, I want to highly recommend a local dish called Ika Mata. This is a combination of chunks of raw fish, usually tuna, drenched in coconut milk and lime juice with bits of vegetables. If you insist that your food be cooked before you eat it, I never went wrong with the fish sandwich – especially at Charlie’s on Rarotonga.

Parting Thoughts

Sunset on the west side of Rarotonga

I came to the Cook Islands to experience natural beauty and South Pacific culture. I didn’t leave without an ample serving of both. The islands are gorgeous, with stunning scenery right out of a screensaver. There’s also the people, who take pride in their ancestral homeland and are eager to share its wonders with others. The Cook Islands may be more remote, more undeveloped and even more unknown than many other tropical destinations. But if its paradise you’re looking for, you’ve come to the right place.

Have you been to the Cook Islands? Do you have an experience to share? Be sure to leave a comment!

And for great travel gift ideas, be sure to check out my Etsy store by clicking here